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Bathroom & Kitchen

Fixture Repairs, Toilets, Faucets and Disposals

The small stuff. Most of it is a cheap part rather than a new fixture, and the difference between those two is worth knowing before anyone quotes you.

What is included

What this service covers

What we actually do on this job, and what you can expect us to deal with while we are there.

  • Running, phantom-filling and weak-flushing toilets
  • Fill valves, flappers, flush valves, wax rings and closet flanges
  • Dripping faucets in kitchens and bathrooms, cartridge and ceramic disc work
  • Shower valve and mixer repair, including thermostatic units
  • Leaking sink traps, waste connections and pop-up assemblies
  • Jammed, humming, leaking and dead garbage disposals
  • Replacing seized or leaking isolation shutoff valves
  • New toilet, faucet, sink, shower and disposal installation

Signs to look for

You may need this if you are seeing any of these

  • Water running continuously, or the tank refilling on its own
  • A drip that carries on after the faucet is fully closed
  • Water on the floor around the base of the toilet, or the pan rocking
  • The disposal hums but nothing turns, or does nothing at all
  • Weak flow from one fixture while the rest of the house is fine
  • A shutoff valve under the sink that will not turn, or weeps when it does

Why it happens

What usually causes it

01

Worn rubber, mostly

Flappers, washers, O-rings and cartridge seals are consumables. They harden, they distort, and they stop sealing. Almost every running toilet and dripping faucet in a house comes back to one of these, which is why the fix is usually cheap when it is diagnosed rather than guessed at.

02

Scale and grit in the working parts

Mineral deposits build up on aerators, cartridges and shower valves, which shows first as weak or uneven flow from one fixture rather than the whole house. It also stops fill valves seating properly, which is a common cause of a toilet that refills every few hours by itself.

03

A failed seal at the floor

A toilet that rocks breaks the wax seal underneath it, and then leaks into the floor rather than onto it. The smell and the staining usually appear before any visible water does, and the repair gets more expensive the longer the subfloor stays wet.

04

Something hard in the disposal

A humming disposal is almost always jammed rather than dead. So is one that trips out. Both are recoverable far more often than people assume, which is worth knowing before you buy a unit you may not need.

Our approach

How we handle this job

Specific to this work rather than a generic checklist bolted onto every page.

  1. 01

    We ask you to try two things first

    For a dead disposal, the reset button underneath it and the hex key in the bottom. For a running toilet, whether the sound stops when you jiggle the handle. Both take a minute and both sometimes mean you do not need us at all. We would rather tell you that on the phone.

  2. 02

    Diagnose the specific fixture

    Which part has failed, whether the shutoff serving it actually works, and whether the fixture itself is worth keeping. On older fixtures we check that parts are still available before recommending a repair over a replacement.

  3. 03

    Price the repair and the replacement

    Where both are viable you get both numbers and pick. We do not decide for you which side of that line your fifteen-year-old faucet falls on.

  4. 04

    Fit it and test it properly

    Cycled, checked under load, and checked again for weeping at the connections after it has sat under pressure. A fitting that is dry on the day and damp in a week has not been tested.

The small jobs are where most people get overcharged

Not because anyone is being dishonest, particularly. It happens because fixture faults are easy to quote from the doorway and hard to diagnose properly, and a replacement is a simpler conversation than a repair. A running toilet, a dripping faucet and a dead disposal all have the same shape: a cheap part has failed inside something expensive.

So the useful thing we can do on this kind of work is tell you which it is before anyone spends anything. Sometimes that means telling you it is a two-minute fix you can do yourself.

Try these before you call us

A disposal that hums or does nothing. There is a reset button on the underside, usually red, and a hex fitting in the center of the base. Turn the key back and forth to free the plate, press the reset, and try it again. This recovers a large share of units people were about to replace.

A toilet that refills by itself. Take the lid off and look at the flapper at the bottom of the tank. If the sound stops when you press down on it, that is your fault found and it is an inexpensive part.

Weak flow at one faucet. Unscrew the aerator from the end of the spout, rinse the screen, refit it. Scale and grit collect there and nowhere else.

None of that is us being generous. It is that a service call for something you could have fixed in a minute is a bad experience, and you would remember it.

When a fixture is genuinely finished

There is a real line, and we will tell you when something crosses it. A cracked tank or bowl is not repairable. A faucet whose cartridge is no longer manufactured is not worth labor twice. A disposal leaking from the housing seam rather than a connection has failed internally, and the housing is the unit.

What we will not do is use those as a default answer. Plenty of fifteen-year-old fixtures have another decade in them and need a part costing very little, and you should be told that even though it is the smaller job.

Older houses, older fittings

A good share of the housing in Lebanon city and the boroughs predates the fittings now considered standard. That shows up on this work in a specific way: the shutoff valves under sinks and behind toilets are often original, never operated, and seized solid. People discover this at the worst possible moment.

If we are working on a fixture and the valve serving it will not turn, we will say so and quote to replace it. It is a small addition to a small job, and it is the difference between a controlled repair and a wet floor the day something lets go.

Questions

Fixture repairs questions

Specific to this job. Every service page here has its own, none repeated.

General FAQ

Common questions

My toilet runs on and off by itself. Is that expensive?
Usually not. Intermittent refilling means water is escaping from the tank into the bowl slowly, and the flapper is the culprit most of the time. It is an inexpensive part. What makes it worth dealing with quickly is the water going through it: a toilet that refills every few hours is a quiet, continuous bill, and it does not announce itself the way a burst pipe does.
The disposal just hums. Do I need a new one?
Probably not. A hum means the motor is getting power but the plate will not turn, which is a jam nearly every time. There is a hex key fitting in the center of the underside for exactly this, and a reset button next to it. Work the key back and forth, press the reset, try it again. If it then runs, you needed neither us nor a new unit. If it trips straight back out or stays silent, that is a real fault and worth a call.
Why does one faucet have weak flow when the rest of the house is fine?
Because the restriction is at that fixture rather than in the supply. Aerators clog with sediment and scale, and cartridges do the same internally. Unscrewing the aerator and rinsing it out solves a surprising share of these. If flow is weak with the aerator removed entirely, the cartridge or the shutoff feeding it is the next thing to look at.
Is it worth repairing an old faucet or should I just replace it?
It depends on whether parts still exist for it. Many mid-range faucets from the last fifteen years have cartridges still in production, and a cartridge is far cheaper than a new fixture plus fitting. Older or discontinued units are a different matter, and there is no sense putting labor into something we cannot source parts for again. We check availability before advising.
My toilet rocks slightly. Does that matter?
Yes, more than it looks like it should. Movement works the wax seal loose, and once that seal is broken the leak goes into the floor rather than across it. That is why the first sign is often a smell or a stain rather than visible water. Fixing the rocking and reseating the pan is a modest job. Replacing a rotted subfloor is not.
The shutoff valve under my sink will not turn. Can you still work on the faucet?
We can, but the valve is the thing to deal with first. A shutoff that will not turn is a shutoff that will not help you the day something bursts, which is the one day it matters. They seize because they are never operated. We replace them as part of the job rather than forcing them and hoping.
Do you work on commercial fixtures?
Yes, including flushometer toilets and pre-rinse units in commercial kitchens, which fail differently from domestic fixtures and take different parts.

Ready when you are

Need fixture repairs in Lebanon County?

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  • Price agreed before work starts

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