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Drain & Sewer

Sewer Line Repair and Replacement

The lateral from your house to the main is the property owner's responsibility in most Lebanon County municipalities. It gets a camera before anyone decides how to fix it.

What is included

Sewer lateral repair, lining and replacement

  • Camera inspection to find the break, sag, offset or root intrusion
  • Spot repairs where a single section has failed
  • Full lateral replacement by open excavation
  • Trenchless pipe bursting and cured in place lining where suitable
  • Clearing and re-lining root damaged clay and cast iron
  • Locating and installing an accessible cleanout
  • Municipal permits and pre-backfill inspections

Signs to look for

What are the signs of a broken sewer line?

  • Backups affecting more than one fixture at the same time
  • Gurgling from a floor drain or tub when a toilet is flushed
  • Sewage odor outdoors, particularly after rain
  • An unusually green, lush or sunken strip across the yard
  • Blockages that return within weeks of being cleared
  • Slow drainage throughout the whole house rather than one fixture

Why it happens

What makes a sewer lateral fail?

01

Roots through an open joint

Older clay laterals come in short sections with a joint between each one, and joints move as the ground settles. Once one opens, roots find the moisture and grow in. Cutting them restores flow and leaves the opening, so they return.

02

Cast iron corroding from the inside

Common close to the building on older Lebanon city properties. The wall roughens as it rusts, catching paper and grease, and eventually scales badly enough to close the bore.

03

A sag holding water

Long laterals on the suburban lots around Palmyra and Annville settle over decades. A section that drops even slightly holds water permanently, solids settle in it, and blockages recur in exactly the same place.

04

Crushing and offsets

Ground movement, vehicle loading over a shallow run, or a joint pulling apart leaves a step inside the pipe that catches everything passing. This is the failure mode that cabling cannot help with at all.

Our approach

Camera first, then the right repair

  1. 01

    Camera the line first

    A camera goes down before anything gets decided. It shows the material, the condition, the depth and the exact distance to the defect, and that distance decides whether this is a small repair near the foundation or a run out to the street.

  2. 02

    Locate and mark

    The camera head is tracked from the surface so the defect is marked on the ground. That is what keeps excavation to one targeted hole rather than a trench looking for the problem.

  3. 03

    Choose the method honestly

    Spot repair, lining, pipe bursting or open excavation each suit different conditions. We will tell you which the footage supports, including when the smallest repair is the right one.

  4. 04

    Permits, dig, inspect, restore

    Where the municipality requires a permit and a pre-backfill inspection, both are handled as part of the job. Pennsylvania 811 marks buried utilities before anyone digs. Under Act 287 of 1974, as amended by Act 50 of 2017, notice has to be given at least three business days ahead, and the duty falls on homeowners using powered equipment just as it does on contractors. It is a legal requirement, not an optional step.

Camera footage before any decision

The most useful thing on a sewer line is a camera before anyone decides anything.

A camera run down the lateral shows the material, the condition, the depth and, critically, the exact distance to the problem. That distance is the whole job. Eight feet from the foundation is a morning’s work in one targeted hole. Sixty feet out under the sidewalk is a different project, with permits, traffic control and a much bigger dig.

Nobody can tell those apart by looking at a backup in your basement, which is why the footage comes first.

Old clay sewer pipe in a trench with tree roots growing through a cracked joint

What tends to fail, and where in the county

The housing stock predicts this fairly well.

In the older parts of Lebanon city, laterals are frequently cast iron near the building and clay further out, running under narrow streets alongside everything else that is buried there. Cast iron rusts rough and closes up. Clay comes in short jointed sections, and once a joint opens, roots find it. Excavation is harder here too, because the trench often crosses a sidewalk or reaches into the cartway.

In the postwar and later development around Palmyra, Annville and the townships, the houses sit further back from the road, so laterals are long. Long runs settle, and a section that drops slightly holds water permanently. Solids collect in that low spot and the blockages recur in precisely the same place.

A leaking lateral on limestone ground

On the western side of the county a failing lateral is not only a drainage problem. Water escaping underground washes soil into the limestone below, which is the second biggest contributor to sinkholes here after the geology itself. We cover how that works and what to watch for separately.

What it changes about this job is urgency and sequence. A lateral that is cracked or open at a joint on karst ground is worth putting a camera down sooner rather than at the next backup, because the risk of waiting is not another cleaning visit, it is the ground. And where a hole has already opened, the camera answers the half that is ours: whether a pipe is feeding it, and how far out.

High pressure hydro jetting hose and reel set up for pipe cleaning

Choosing between repair, lining and replacement

Once there is footage, the options narrow quickly and honestly.

A spot repair suits one failure in an otherwise sound pipe. Lining installs a new wall inside the existing pipe and works well against root intrusion and cracking on a continuous run, but it cannot fix a collapse or a sag. Pipe bursting pulls new pipe through the old path and handles worse condition without a full trench, though it needs pits at both ends and clearance from other utilities. Open excavation remains the answer for a collapsed or badly sagged line that needs regrading.

We will tell you which the camera supports, including when it supports the smallest one.

Questions

Sewer line questions from Lebanon County homeowners

General FAQ
Should I get a sewer camera inspection before buying an older house?
It is worth it on anything built before about 1970, because a standard home inspection does not scope the lateral. The inspector checks what is visible; the buried run from the house to the main is not. On older property that line may be clay, cast iron or Orangeburg, and a camera is the only way to see its condition before the sale rather than after. It is a short job, and it either gives you a clean line or it gives you something to raise before closing.
Clay, cast iron or Orangeburg: does it matter what my sewer pipe is?
It matters, because each fails differently and that changes the fix. Clay comes in short sections with joints at every one, and roots find those joints. Cast iron rusts from the inside out, roughening until it catches everything passing through. Orangeburg, a bituminous fiber pipe used mainly in the middle of the last century, softens and deforms out of round with age, and it is the one least worth repairing in place. A camera identifies the material and the failure pattern in the same run.
What are the signs of a broken sewer line outside the house?
Outdoors, look for a sewage smell in the yard with nothing wrong indoors, a strip of grass over the line that is greener or soggier than the rest, ground settling along the line or around a cleanout, and a dip that keeps needing filled. Indoors it is backups in more than one fixture, gurgling when another fixture drains, and blockages that return to the same spot. Any of the outdoor signs on limestone ground is worth looking at promptly, because a leaking line can make a sinkhole worse.
How do I tell a blocked drain from a failed sewer line?
A single slow fixture is usually a local blockage. The signals pointing at the lateral itself are backups affecting more than one fixture at once, gurgling from a floor drain or tub when a toilet is flushed, sewage odor outdoors, an unusually green or sunken strip across the yard, and blockages that keep returning within weeks. A camera inspection settles it, because it shows the pipe rather than inferring from symptoms.
Is the sewer lateral mine or the municipality's?
In most Lebanon County municipalities the property owner is responsible for the lateral from the building to the connection at the main, including the buried portion under the yard and often under the sidewalk or street. Rules vary between the City of Lebanon Authority and individual borough and township authorities, so confirm with whoever bills your sewer. If several houses on your street are affected at once, that points at the public main rather than at your lateral, and that call goes to the authority first.
Can a sewer line be replaced without digging up the whole yard?
Sometimes. Pipe bursting pulls a new pipe through the path of the old one from a pit at each end, and lining cures a new pipe wall inside the existing one. Both need the run to be reasonably straight and intact enough to work with, and both need access pits. A collapsed line, a badly offset joint, or a sag holding water generally has to be dug and regraded, because lining a sag just gives you a lined sag.
Why does the camera go in before anything else?
Because replacing eight feet of pipe near the foundation and sixty feet out to the street are very different jobs, and there is no way to tell which you need by looking at a backup in the basement. The footage shows the material, the defect and how far out it is, so the plan is built on the pipe rather than a guess.
How long does a lateral replacement take?
A targeted spot repair is often a day. A full replacement by open excavation is typically one to three days depending on length, depth, what is in the way and what the ground is like. Trenchless methods can be quicker on site but need more setup. Permits and inspection scheduling can add time before the work starts, which is worth knowing when you are planning around it.
What happens to my yard, driveway or sidewalk?
Open excavation leaves a trench that gets backfilled and compacted. The surface gets restored to a reasonable standard, but matching mature lawn or decorative hardscape exactly is not something any plumber should promise. Where a driveway or a sidewalk is over the run, ask about trenchless, because it can leave that surface in place.
Will tree roots come back after the repair?
Not through sound, properly jointed new pipe. Roots do not break into intact pipe, they exploit openings that already exist. That is the whole argument for fixing the defect rather than cabling the roots out once a year: cutting them treats the symptom and leaves the door open, replacing or lining the section closes it.
Do I need a permit, and who pulls it?
Most municipalities here require a permit for lateral work and many require an inspection before the trench is closed. Both are handled as part of the job. An unresolved permit on buried work can cause real problems when you come to sell the property, so it is never skipped.

Ready when you are

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